CSC Blog

Men of a certain age, like me, grew up in the ’50s and ’60s.  Our values were formed in a era when honor, courage, integrity, and self-reliance were important, and I think a big part of that is what we watched on TV.   Today, the shows on TV are mostly mindless drivel centered on “pop culture” (an oxymoron if ever there was one) and the so-called reality genre.  I was way luckier…

The stars of those ’50s and ’60s shows were folks who knew the difference between right and wrong, and we received a steady stream of 30-minute morality injections (less the time needed for commercials) every week.   It seemed to work.

The other stars of those TV westerns, of course, were horses and guns.   Owning a horse isn’t very practical for most of us (Patty excepted), but I think the steady emphasis on capable six-shooters in those early TV shows is what instilled and sustained a fascination with firearms for many of us.  A Colt .45 Single Action Army figured in nearly every episode (in fact, you can see this iconic firearm in several of the photos above).   It’s no small wonder that the sixguns still sell so well in the US.

So, to make a long story a little less long, when I saw this Taylor and Company “tuned” Single Action Army at my local gun shop yesterday, I was a goner…

Yep, I pulled the trigger, and in 10 days or so, it will be mine.   It’s chambered in .45 Colt, and the “tuned” descriptor means it’s already had a trigger and action job to slick up the internals.   I tried the trigger and it was under two pounds.  The gun is beautiful…it’s got a brass grip frame, a color case hardened receiver, and high polish bluing everywhere else.  I’ve already got the .45 Colt dies and brass, I’m going to load some ammo this weekend, and I’ll keep you posted on how this puppy shoots.  It’s going to be fun!

And, speaking of fun, we are now 8 days away from the start of our CSC Baja ride.   Steve has already designed the decal for this one (having a cool tank decal for each of our epic rides is sort of a tradition for us), and here’s what it’s going to look like…

I’ll be at the plant for a little while this morning…I’m riding my RX3 over and then I’m going to lunch with my riding buddies.   If you’re out and about, I’ll see you there!

Don’t miss the boat: We’re famous for it!  We brought the world-class RX3 to you at a price folks are still talking about. We made the world sit up and take notice again when we did it with the TT250.  Well, folks, we’re doing it again!

Yes, we are bringing Don’t Miss The Boat III to you! This time, it’s the exciting new 2016 CSC RC3!

The RC3 is our sport bike based on the RX3 engine. It’s our fully-faired, fuel injected, counterbalanced, liquid-cooled, 4-valve, 250cc, 6-speed, ABS-equipped RC3, and for a very limited time, we’re offering it to you in 4 colors for only $2895! We’ve had a prototype RC3 for a couple of months, and it’s awesome! It’s fast and it’s fun!

You read that right: The new RC3 is only $2895, but that offer won’t last long. You can only get that price with a $1000 deposit. There will be a $300 flat shipping fee to anywhere in the lower 48 United States and a $35 documentation fee, and that’s it. There’s no assembly required: The RC3 will be delivered to your doorstep completely assembled and ready to ride!

The RC3 will be here in June 2016. $1000 now will lock in the $2895 price for you. This is a limited time offer, so don’t miss the boat! Give us a call now at 909 445 0900 to place your order!

Let’s take a look at some of the details on this exciting new motorcycle.    The first cool feature is the instrument cluster on this bike…you can change the tint from red to blue!

That’s 161 kmph on the tell-tale, folks, and if you do the math, this little 250 is one fast motorcycle!  Oh, one other thing:  The RC3 has a neat feature that allows changing the brightness of the LCD display, which is pretty cool.

And guess what…the power outlets (a 5V USB port and a 12V cigarette lighter port) are standard equipment on the RC3!

How’s adjustable suspension (both front and rear) sound to you!

The exhaust system is stainless steel all the way, from the exhaust header to the muffler…

And of course, anti-skid braking with an oversize dual piston front disk!

Check out the clip-on bars…and in case you are wondering, we will have an underseat accessory outlet controlled by the right handlebar switch (just like we do on the TT250 and the RX3)!

And check out these beautiful rear set foot controls!   They make the motorcycle look fast even when it’s parked!

Here’s a look at the headlight and the taillight…

More cool details…check out the underseat taillight mount…

…and the cast aluminum passenger grab rails…

…the flush-mounted fuel cap…

…and the included fuel tank protector!

Oh, one more thing….you asked for specifications on the new RC3, and here they are!

Folks, this bike has it all, and it’s fast!   They’ll be here in June and we’re taking deposits now.   The boat is getting ready to depart…don’t miss it!   Take a look at the forum comments on CSC, the RX3, and the TT250.   We bring it all to you:  A superior world class motorcycle, high performance, superior quality, the best bang for the buck in the business, a free service manual, and absolutely exemplary customer support.   Don’t take our word for it, though.   Check the Internet, and see what our customers say!

Give us a call at 909 445 0900, get your oar in the water, and don’t miss this boat!

Gerry had the new RC3 out the other day, and we found out the instrumentation has a feature to capture your maximum speed.   This is in kilometers per hour, and Gerry said there might have even been a little bit more available….

Don’t miss the boat:  We’re famous for it.  We first brought the world-class RX3 to you at a price folks are still talking about.   We made the world sit up and take notice again when we did it with the TT250.  Well, folks, you can guess where this is going.

Yes, we are bringing Don’t Miss The Boat III to you!  This time, it’s the exciting new 2016 CSC RC3!

The RC3 is our exciting new sport bike based on the RX3 engine.  It’s our fully-faired, fuel injected, counterbalanced, liquid-cooled, 4-valve, 250cc, 6-speed, ABS-equipped RC3, and for a very limited time, we’re offering it to you in 4 colors for only $2895!   We’ve had a prototype RC3 for a couple of months, and it’s awesome!  It’s fast and it’s fun!

You read that right:  The new RC3 is only $2895, but that offer won’t last long.   You can only get that price with a $1000 deposit.   There will be a $300 flat shipping fee to anywhere in the lower 48 United States and a $35 documentation fee, and that’s it.  There’s no assembly required:  The RC3 will be delivered to your doorstep completely assembled and ready to ride!

The RC3 will be here in June 2016.   $1000 now will lock in the $2895 price for you.    This is a limited time offer, so don’t miss the boat!  Give us a call now at 909 445 0900 to place your order!

This is one from a few years ago when I was in Bangkok.   Grab a cup of coffee, sit back, and enjoy…

A Photoshop expert I am not…but I bought this new watch yesterday and I’m thinking maybe…

Folks, our new TT250 aluminum skid plate is now available.  It’s built of the same high quality aircraft grade aluminum and it’s the same thickness as our optional RX3 skid plate, and it’s only $129.95.   Give us a call at 909 445 0900 if you want one of these for your new TT250!

The TT250 has both a kickstarter and an electric starter.   This maintenance tutorial addresses the TT250 electric start system.

If your TT250 does not start when you press the starter button, the first thing you should check is the engine kill switch to make sure it is in the run position (no kidding; we frequently get calls about bikes not starting, we tell folks to check the kill switch, and we get a meek “never mind” after they have checked the kill switch).

If the kill switch is in the run position and the motorcycle does not crank at all, the next thing to check is the fuse.  The fuse is accessible underneath the left body panel.

If the fuse is open (blown), you will need to replace it, but before you do, you should find the reason the fuse blew or it is likely you will just blow the fuse again when you replace it.   Our most frequently encountered reason for a blown fuse is the wire cluster behind the headlight.   Sometimes the connector boots slide away from the connector and permit a short to ground (it’s the first place I’d look).   If that is not the problem, examine all of the motorcycle’s wiring and use a multimeter to identify any shorts to ground.

If the fuse is intact and the motorcycle does not crank, next check the battery.   Please see our battery maintenance tutorial for this.

If the battery output is appropriate and the connections are in good shape, check the starter relay.   Use a multimeter to confirm voltage is reaching the relay and the relay closes when the starter button is pressed.  If the starter relay does not receive voltage when the starter button is pressed, the problem is in the circuit from the starter button.  Use a multimeter to isolate the fault and correct any anomalies.

If the starter relay receives electrical energy but it does not close the circuit to the starter, check the starter relay connections.  If they are intact and free of corrosion, replace the starter relay.  Please call us at 800 884 4173 if you need a starter relay.

If the starter relay closes, use a multimeter and check to see if electrical energy is reaching the starter motor.   The connection is on the starter motor just behind the starter motor case on the left side of the motorcycle.

If the starter motor is receiving electrical energy but does not crank, the problem is most likely the starter motor.   You will need to remove the exhaust pipe to get access to the starter motor.  The starter motor is removed by removing the two bolts retaining it (accessible from the right side of the motorcycle, and the electrical connection (as shown in the photo).   If you need a starter motor, please call us at 909 445 0900.

If the starter motor spins freely but the engine does not turn, either the starter motor output gear is stripped or there is a problem in the starter gear train.

Remove the starter motor transfer gear train cover and examine the gears.  The starter motor transfer gear train cover is restrained by three 8mm bolts.    If the starter motor output gear or the gear train exhibits any anomalies, replace any defective components.  Please call us at 909 445 o900 for replacement parts.  Note that the gear cluster has thin shims on either side; take care not to lose these.

If no defects are apparent, it will be necessary to remove the left engine crankcase cover for further troubleshooting.

Place a drip pan under the engine, as engine oil will escape from the engine during the following steps.

Remove the gear shift lever.

The left engine crankcase cover and the countershaft cover are secured by several 8mm bolts.   Remove all of them.  Note that the bolts are of differing lengths.

Remove the countershaft sprocket cover.

Remove the charging circuit harness retention clip.

Disconnect the charging circuit connector plug.

Unbolt the 8mm bolt inside the starter motor transfer case.

Gently remove the left engine crankcase cover.

Check the two drive gears that interface with the starter motor gear transfer gears and the engine start drive gear .  Note that the gear cluster has thin shims on either side; take care not to lose these.  If either is damaged, replace the transfer gears.   If you need replacement gears, please call us at 909 445 0900.

Check the engine start drive gear behind the rotor.  Examine the engine start drive gear for any defects.  Check for rotation; the engine start drive gear should rotate in only one direction.  If it can be rotated in either direction, the sprag clutch is defective and it must be replaced.  If the engine start drive gear is defective, it must be replaced.  If you need replacement parts, please call us at 909 445 0900.

If you need to replace the engine start drive gear or the sprag clutch, you will have to remove the rotor.  To do so, remove the rotor attach bolt.

Remove the rotor with a gear puller.  If you need the gear puller, we sell them.  Please call us at 909 445 0900.

After you have removed the rotor, you will see the engine start drive gear sprag clutch.  This clutch drives the engine start drive gear in one direction only.  After the engine has started, the crankshaft and the engine start drive gear can spin freely in the sprag clutch.

Inspect the sprag clutch for any damage.   Remove the sprag clutch from the rotor and replace the sprag clutch if it is damaged or if it allows the engine start drive gear to spin in either direction.

After removing the rotor, remove the engine start drive gear if it is damaged.   To do so, you must remove the small Woodruff key that indexes the engine start drive gear to the crankshaft.   Gently tap the Woodruff key out with a screwdriver and a hammer.

Remove the engine start drive gear.   If you need a replacement engine start drive gear, please call us at 909 445 0900.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.  When assembling the left engine cover to the engine, use a new gasket (please call us at 909 445 0900 if you need a new gasket).  Apply Loctite to the rotor crankcase bolt and torque the rotor crankcase bolt to 60 N-m.  Torque the engine cover mounting and countershaft cover bolts to 9 N-m.

Our TT250 video last week made an impression, including the pop-up text a short way into it that quoted Yogi Berra (“when you come to a fork in the road, take it”).   That video, in case you missed it, is here…

My good buddy William shared a photo with me, and it is unquestionably, definitely, absolutely a fork in the road…

William, thanks for sharing that photo with us…you made our day!

This maintenance tutorial addresses maintenance of the TT250 charging system.

You might have a charging system problem if the battery is dead or the bike is hard to start.   It’s more likely this is just a battery problem, so the first thing to do is to check the battery (see the TT250 battery maintenance tutorial).

If you have ruled out a defective battery, the next thing to check is the charging circuit.

Put a multimeter on the battery and measure the voltage when the engine is revved.  It should be between 13.8 and 14.5 VDC.  If the voltage is above 14.5 VDC, the regulator is defective and it must be replaced.  The regulator is located beneath the fuel tank on the left side of the motorcycle.  You will need to remove the seat and fuel tank to gain access to the regulator; the procedure for removing these components is described in other tutorials.  If you need a regulator, please call us at 909 445 0900.

If the battery voltage is below 13.8 volts when the engine is revved, more analysis is required.

The next step is to measure the output of the charging system at the crankshaft.  We’ll check for AC voltage and resistance.  Find the charging circuit harness with the engine running and measure the AC voltage between all three leads.  At idle, it should be 12 VDC.   With the engine at maximum rpm, it should be 60 VDC.

Shut the engine off, disconnect the harness connector shown above, and measure the resistance between all three leads (it should be approximately .5 ohms; anything between .3 ohms and .6 ohms is acceptable).  If the resistance is outside the range mentioned above the stator should be replaced.   We’ll get into that below.

If the charging system from the engine crankshaft (i.e., at the yellow leads discussed above) has appropriate output and resistance, we should next check the output from the regulator.  Find the connector plug as shown in the photo below and check the voltage output when the engine is running.   If it is below 13.8 VDC or above 14.5 VDC when you blip the throttle, the regulator is defective and it must be replaced.

If it is within the acceptable range (i.e., between 13.8 and 14.5 VDC) but the output at the battery terminals (with the engine running) is outside this range, the problem lies in the circuit between the connector plug and the battery.   In this situation, you should check for open circuits, improper connections, or shorts to ground and correct the anomalous condition.

Let’s turn back to the situation described, and that is that the engine is not providing the appropriate output AC voltage or the resistance between the stator leads is too high (as measured at the connector shown earlier).   In this situation, there is a problem with the stator, the engine’s internal wiring from the stator, or the rotor.   It will be necessary to remove the left engine crankcase cover to inspect and correct the anomalous condition.

Place a drip pan beneath the engine, as oil will escape from the engine during this operation.

Remove the gear shift lever with a 10mm wrench.

There are several 8mm bolts securing the left engine cover and the countershaft sprocket cover.   Remove all of them.  Note that the bolts are of different lengths.  Take care to note where each bolt is used.

Remove the countershaft sprocket cover.

Disconnect the stator harness.

Unbolt the harness retainer from the crankcase.

Remove the starter motor transfer gear cover.

Remove the starter transfer gears.  Note their orientation; the smaller gear is closest to the starter motor.  Note that there are small shims on either side of the gear cluster; take care not to lose them.

Unbolt the 8mm bolt securing the starter gear transfer case to the crankcase.  Note that this bolt is a fully threaded bolt.

Gently pry the left crankcase engine cover from the engine.

Examine the stator inside the engine cover.  If the resistance between the three leads is outside the range specified above, replace the stator.  If there is no resistance between any of the leads and ground (this means there is a short to ground), replace the stator.  CSC stocks replacement stators; please call us at 909 445 0900 if you need a replacement stator.

Inspect the rotor.  If the rotor is damaged in any manner, you will need to replace it.  To remove the rotor, remove the bolt securing the rotor.

Use a rotor pulling tool to back the rotor off of the crankshaft.  We sell these; please give us a call at 909 445 0900 if you need this tool.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.  Apply Loctite to the rotor crankcase bolt and torque the rotor crankcase bolt to 60 N-m.  Torque the engine cover mounting and countershaft cover bolts to 9 N-m.  Apply Loctite to the stator mounting bolts and torque the stator mounting bolts to 9 N-m.