Wow!

Gresh and I were joking last night about having left the Tibetan plateau. “I like the sound of it,” he said.   “How many people can start a story with  “When I rode my motorcycle on the Tibetan plateau…’”

I agreed.   We both wondered what we would ever be able to do to top that.

Today, we found out.

Try this on for an opening line:

“When I rode my motorcycle in the Gobi Desert…”

Okay, enough babbling…on to a few of today’s photos…

Helping the chef at breakfast this morning before she shooed me away

Helping the chef at breakfast this morning in Ulan before she shooed me away

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On the highway leaving Ulan…the Chinese police use these to encourage drivers to keep their speed down

Very clever, I think

Very clever, I think

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The best tofu in town, if you’re about to enter the Gobi Desert

This nice young lady served us lunch today

This nice young lady served us lunch today

And we're off...riding my RX3 into the Gobi Desert

And we’re off…riding my RX3 into the Gobi Desert

Motorcyclist magazine's Joe Gresh rides an RX3 into the Gobi Desert

Motorcyclist magazine’s Joe Gresh rides an RX3 into the Gobi Desert

Tearing across the Gobi

Tearing across the Gobi

Two powerful machines...one to move soil, the other to move the soul

Two powerful machines…one to move the soil, the other to move the soul

We’re continuing our trek through the Gobi tomorrow.   This is one incredible ride, folks!

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Xinin

We’re in Xinin tonight, my friends (it’s also spelled Xining, if you look it up on Google).  We’ve been riding through China following the Yellow River all day.  Xinin is a 2100-year-old city with 2.2 million inhabitants.  We’ve done just under 1500 miles so far, and let me tell you, the riding is intense.   We’re off the Tibetan plateau and down to about 7200 feet, and it’s hot and humid again.  The riding styles is about like the riding was in Colombia in the sense that everything is a race and everybody thinks they’re Mario Andretti.   You really have to be on your toes here!

Our Chinese brothers on this ride are all extremely talented riders.  Gresh and I are enjoying the intensity of it.

We’re out of the mountains now.  It’s lots of people, the road is a mix of sometimes asphalt and sometimes dirt, and the traffic is heavy when you pass through the cities.

Mr. Tso has a family emergency, so he left the team to fly home to Guangzhou today.   He rode with us in the US last summer and we will miss riding with him.   Mr. Tso, I know you are going to read this, and we want you to know that we hope your family emergency works out well for you.    We will ride together again, my brother!

Okay, enough of my babbling…on to today’s photos!

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My RX3 at a roadside stop after leaving Linxia this morning

Joe Gresh grabbing a photo along the Yellow River

Joe Gresh grabbing a photo along the Yellow River

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“Mungwa,” a Chinese RX3 rider who met us on the ride to Xining. That’s the Yellow River behind him. “Mungwa” is his biker name. It means mushroom in Chinese. I thought it was because of what we say about being a mushroom (you know, they keep you in the dark and feed you, well, you know), but that wasn’t it at all.  Mungwa just likes mushrooms.

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We suddenly pulled off the road in Ledu, and our team leader (Zuo) dashed across the street on foot. He returned with two watermelons, which were fantastic. Here’s a photo of Lu checking his email after we gorged outselves. Life is good.

Joe Gresh enjoys a piece of watermelon in China

Joe Gresh enjoys a piece of watermelon in Ledu, China

A bicyclist in China

A bicyclist in China

We are out of the Tibetan Buddhist region and we are now squarely in China’s Islamic region.   We’ve seen enormous mosques, and we’ve seen enormous mosques under contruction.   There’s lots of construction of all types in China.  Bridges, tunnels, skyscrapers (even in the smaller towns), roads, you name it, and China is building it.

That’s it for tonight, folks.   Tomorrow’s destination is Qinghai Lake, Cha Ka Lake, and Wu Lan.

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Linxia!

Whoa, blessed relief…we are in Linxia (not Ningxia, as I reported our destination yesterday).  The spellings of Chinese things in English are easy to get distorted. We’re down from the Tibetan plateau and its elevations of 12,000 to 14,000 feet.  Linxia is at an altitude of “only” about 6,000 feet, so the altitude-induced lightheadedness and headaches we were experiencing are gone.

I’m not complaining about that, though.  In fact, I’m not complaining about anything on this ride.  What we are seeing and what we have been experiencing on this grandest of all adventures has been beyond incredible!  I’ve been receiving lots of emails from our readers, and my good buddy Tom’s comment was spot on the money.   Tom said I was one lucky (you can fill in the blanks, folks).   You sure got that right, Tom!

For starters, here are the photos on the road to Tangke yesterday that I didn’t get to post last night….

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Up on the Tibetan plateau at 12,720 feet

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A Tibetan motorcyclist

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Lu on his RX3…Lu is an incredibly-talented rider

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The nine bikes we are riding on this adventure

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Chasing Zuo on the Tibetan plateau

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A Tibetan Buddhist monk on a motorcycle

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The Nine Curves region of the Yellow River

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Lu helping a Tibetan woman make tea

Next, the photos on the ride to Linxia today. It was a long day followed by another spectacular dinner. Just a quick rundown tonight, folks. Linxia is a city of two million people. We’ve left the Tibetan Buddhist area and we are now in a Muslim region. We rode 370 kilometers today, which may not sound like much, but factor in that it rained for half the day, we did another 80 or so kilometers on dirt, and Linxia the traffic is something right out of a YouTube video.  It was a challenge.

Here are the photos on the road to Linxia…

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My photo of the RX1 on the Rouergai marsh lands

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A Buddhist monastery roof on the road to Linxia

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A Buddhist monk

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Entering the Gansu Prefecture

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Joe Gresh enjoying a chicken head after placing second overall in last night’s chopstick contest

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An epicurean exercise in excellence fit for an emperor…our new normal…a 19-course dinner! The food on this adventure ride is spectacular!

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Master Sergeant Zuo enjoying the noodles

The bikes are all running well and so are we.   To be blunt, we are beating the living daylights out of our RX3s and RX1s, and these motorcycles are tough.  The RX1s are proving to be very capable (this is Zongshen’s first endurance test of the RX1), and you already know the RX3 is a proven performer.    We’ve done about 1300 miles so far, and we haven’t heard a whimper from any of the motorcycles.   It’s just a given that they are Zongshen tough.

It’s 6:00 a.m. here, and that means it’s time to start packing the bikes.   Our destination tonight is Xinin, about 260 km down the road.   You’ll know more about today’s ride in tomorrow’s blog, folks!

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Tangke very much…

Slow going, folks. We did less than 200 miles yesterday, partly because of the roads and partly because of the stops for camera work. We rode in mostly cloudy weather yesterday with little rain.   The views were spectacular, including a stop at the end of the day at the headwaters of the Yellow River (China’s “Mother River”).    That was an interesting one…it involved a climb to the top of a hill that gave us a view of the river’s nine curves.   Coming down those 1000 steps was worse than going up; I have a phobia about going down stairs,

We’re in Tangke, still on the Tibetan plateau, and we’re going to try to make Ningxia tonight. There’s no running water in our hotel this morning, but we’re hoping that will change in a few minutes.  It poured all night long, and it looks like it’s going to rain again today.   Put the altitude and the cold temperatures into the mix, and this ride has become quite challenging.  The altitude thing is particularly challenging.   It’s easy to get lightheaded.   I haven’t experienced the headaches that sometimes go with high altitudes, but some of the other guys have.

Connectivity is terrible out here, so no photos for the blog today, folks.

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On top of the world…

Greetings from the Tibetan Plateau, folks!

We’re up here on top of the world, and we’re staying the night in a town called Aba (it’s pronounced “obbah”).   We rode beautiful mountain roads, and then we rode another 100 kilometers on a dirt road (and it was mostly mud because of the torrential rains during the last several days).  Our entire day has been between 12,000 and 14,000 feet, and we are feeling it (any exertion at all and it feels like you just ran a marathon).   Internet connectivity here is terrible, so I’m not going to post too many words.   The photos seem to go through okay, though, and here they are!

The real deal, folks! We're riding China!

The real deal, folks! We’re riding China!

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We saw lots of cattle. Most were just wandering loose on the road.

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Two Tibetan Honda riders

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This fellow happened by during one of stops. It had just stopped raining.

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Wong took this photo of me with a Tibetan woman

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Riding in the mountains was spectacular

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We were delayed by numerous landslides during our run on the dirt road

Master Sergeant Zuo

Master Sergeant Zuo

My muddy RX3 on the Tibetan Plateau

My muddy RX3 on the Tibetan Plateau

Another beauty shot

Another beauty shot

Arriving in Aba after 100 kilometers of mud

Arriving in Aba after 100 kilometers of mud

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A young Tibetan boy

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The riders…Dong, Lin, Tso, Joe, Zuo, Lu, Furem, and Wong.   That’s Aba in the background.

It’s 6:00 a.m. here, so it’s time to start getting ready for today’s ride.   Until tomorrow, my friends…

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Wu Ming, Ma’erkang, Rang Tang, and more…

Yesterday was a challenging day. It started easily enough with a breakfast in Wenchuan and a great ride through the Chinese mountains headed toward Seda (it’s pronounced “Seh-Dah”) but by late afternoon the skies opened and it poured cats and dogs.   Couple that with roughly 60 miles on dirt, lots of detours around washed-out roads, and a long, long day, and I was just too tired to write or post last night.  This morning wasn’t much better.  It rained all night and it was cold.  My Olympia raingear does a better job holding rainwater in than it does keeping the rain out, and when you put all of that together, you have a pretty good feel for what yesterday afternoon and this morning were like.   But the sights and the riding…folks, it’s the adventure of a lifetime.

We had breakfast at a sidewalk café in Wenchuan yesterday morning.  The food over here has been incredible.   It is so much better than the Chinese food we have in the United States.   Every meal is a feast (more on that later).   Yesterday morning’s breakfast allowed me to photograph the people wandering by.   Here are just two…

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After breakfast we were on the road.  Here’s a shot from the saddle of my RX3.   That’s Joe Gresh in front of me, the guy who writes the Motorcyclist magazine “Cranked” column.

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Check out Master Sergeant Zuo and Mr. Tso at a rest stop.   These guys are fun to be around.

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Here’s a shot of my bike at a fuel stop.  You might think it looked dirty yesterday.  You should see it today.  On our ride on that long dirt road in the rain, we went through mud puddles that were a good foot deep.  I named my bike “the Yellow Submarine.”

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Joe Gresh at lunch in Ma’erkang.  That’s Fu Ren (it’s pronounced Foo Zhen) behind him.

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We were headed into Tibetan Buddhist country.  This was my last shot before it started raining.  I guess I should have got some shots of that weather, but I had enough on my hands just keeping the bike up.

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It is incredibly remote in the parts of China we rode through yesterday and today.   At the end of the day yesterday, we were cold, wet, and beat.  It was raining, the temperature was plummeting at our 9000-ft altitude, and we were nearly out of gas.   We finally found a hotel in little village outside of Seda.  We had dinner at this little hole in the wall place next door.   Remember the scene in Raiders of the Lost Ark when Indiana Jones entered the bar to hook up with his former girlfriend?   That’s what this place reminded me of.  It was great.

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We entered the Tibetan Buddhist village of Wu Ming this morning.  It was a scene out of a dream.   I didn’t get great shots because it was raining so hard, but I will remember this place for the rest of my life.   What an experience!

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By the way, that little village you see above is 3700 meters above sea level.  It was an incredible experience.  I’ve never seen anything like this.

Here’s a cool shot of a guy on a diesel tractor.  I waved to him when he went by.

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This young lady was hanging around where we ate lunch.  I asked if I could take a picture and she shook her head no, but then she relented…

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The people in this area are ethnically different than the other Chinese people I have seen.   Tracy, our interpreter, explained to me that people of Tibetan descent live in China.

The rain stopped around 1:00 p.m. today, and at one of our stops I grabbed this photo of the northern China countryside.

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Here are a few more photos from this afternoon….this one is of the bikes parked in a Buddhist village.

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My bike next to some Buddhist artwork…

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…and yours truly with a Buddhist monk…

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One of the grand surprises on this trip has been the cuisine.  I’ve been to China many times, but I’ve never traveled like this.   The guys we are riding with have this uncanny ability to find wonderful restaurants.

The Chinese know how to eat.  Every meal is a feast.   They don’t serve everything all at once (the restaurant brings dishes out as they prepare them), and our lunches and dinners have been tremendous fun.  At our dinner this evening, we had all 15 members of our expedition present.  I counted the dishes the restaurant brought out…there were 14 separate dishes and a huge bowl of rice.

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I shot the above photo about midway through our meal.   We were served several more dishes in addition to those you see above.   The Chinese know how to prepare a dish, too…even plain stuff is exceptional.

Check out the spicy chicken…

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I’ll bet you’ve never seen potatoes prepared like this…

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After another great dinner, I stuck my head in the kitchen and the chef allowed me to snap this photo…

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So we’re in a town called Rang Tang (it’s pronounced “ZhongTon”), the bikes are parked out front, and I’m about ready to call it a night.   One more thing, and that’s a quick update to give you an idea of where we are…

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We’ve ridden about 750 miles so far.   It’s been great.  Stay tuned…there’s much more to follow here on the blog, and there will be a lot more in Riding China.

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Wenchuan-bound (maybe)…

Ah, the Pandas…what a thing to see!

It was brutally hot and humid, but the pandas were cool (literally, as they are kept in an air conditioned enclosure with all the bamboo they can eat).   In the afternoon, we rode through downtown Chengdu…that’s a heck of a story I’ll get to later.

Master Sergeant Zuo told us we had another 390 kilometers today, which is different than what the itinerary shows. Maybe we got the translation wrong.  The itinerary shows our destination today as Wenchuan.   Top (the Master Sergeant) told us we’re going to see the site of a massive Chinese earthquake and an ancient dam.  We’ll see and I’ll let you know.

More fun, more photos…

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Texting and riding…surprisingly, we see a lot of this

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Through a thick glass window…there they are!

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Lu ignoring the sign with a very friendly peacock

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This gal was fascinated by the Nikon

One of our dishes at lunch yesterday...this is the "before" shot

One of our dishes at lunch yesterday…this is the “before” shot

...and this is the "after" shot

…and this is the “after” shot

Check out this heretofore unknown Zongshen 150cc little flat-tracker Sportster-themed bike...I want one!

Check out this previously-unknown Zongshen 150cc Sportster-themed bike…I want one!

Time to get ready to roll, folks.   We’re headed to Wenchuan!

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At the departure ceremony…

It’s 6:00 a.m. in Chengdu (all over China, actually, as they keep the same time zone across the country), and I’m waiting for the breakfast buffet to open.  In the meantime, a few more China photos…

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With Dominic Yu, General Manager of Zongshen’s Export Division, at yesterday’s departure ceremony.   Having US participation on this ride is a big deal.    Joe and I are ambassadors.

With Master Sergeant Zuo, one of my fellow riders, at the banner signing yesterday. The Chinese on big on signing banners, jackets, helmets, and other things. It's a cool custom. I think we've signed three or four banners already, and we've only been on the road one day!

With Master Sergeant Zuo, one of my fellow riders, at the banner signing yesterday. The Chinese are big on signing banners, jackets, helmets, and other things. It’s a cool custom. I think we’ve signed three or four banners already, and we’ve only been on the road one day!

Joe, Liu, and Joe at the departure ceremony yesterday

Joe, Lu, and Joe at the departure ceremony yesterday.  Lu is riding his own RX3 on this ride.

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Somewhere on the road to Chengdu

I can't tell you how many scenes like this I've seen in just a day on the road. The ones I missed were even better. More photo opportunities, I guess. Grand fun.

I can’t tell you how many scenes like this I’ve seen in just a day on the road. The ones I missed were even better. More photo opportunities, I suppose. Grand fun.

Joe Gresh got a shot with 4 people on a motorcycle. He told me we are having a contest to see who can get a shot with the most people on a motorcycle. I'm going to let him go at it for a while, and then I'll pull out my photo with 6 people on a bike in Colombia!

Joe Gresh got a shot yesterday with 4 people on a motorcycle. He told me we are having a contest to see who can get the shot with the most people on a motorcycle. I’m going to let him go at it for a while, and then I’ll pull out my photo with 6 people on a bike in Colombia!

Time for breakfast, folks, and then we’re off to see the pandas!

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Since you liked it so much…

I thought I would add another photo of the fire engine RX3 with Joe Gresh and yours truly at the Zongshen plant…

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On the road to Chengdu!

Yep, the rain in Chongqing stopped, the bikes were ready, and after a formal departure ceremony at the Zongshen plant (I actually had to give a speech), we were on the road.   Woohoo!  I’m riding an RX3 across China!

We did 240 miles today through some of the roughest traffic I’ve ever seen, but the scenery in rural China from Chongqing to Chengdu was awesome.  It’s nearly 11:00 p.m. here as I write this, so I’m just going to post a few photos and call it a night…

Riding an RX3 across the Yangtze River!

Riding an RX3 across the Yangtze River!

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Another magnificent Chinese bridge!

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A great roadside lunch…these fellows do know how to put on a party

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One of the Chinese riders on an RX3 brought his own tool kit

Yours truly with a Chinese guard...on the road to Chengdu

Yours truly with a Chinese guard…on the road to Chengdu…photo by Joe Gresh

That’s it for now.  Time for some shuteye!

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